Namaste!: Sunrise on the Ganges

The next morning, we could join Abhi and Krishna at 5:45 if we wished (the only ones who didn’t go were Charlie and Diane because of Diane’s sickness) to go to the river again, but this time for the sunrise. We parked at an intersection and began walking toward the river, to the ghats where the ceremony was the night before. Abhi explained that we would be accompanied by two young men who would help guide us and make sure we walked safely down the street, avoiding cow manure, cows, uneven pavement, etc. The “boys,” as Abhi called them (he uses that term a lot, for bus drivers, porters, etc.!) were born deaf and couldn’t speak, and Abhi said giving them money for doing this type of job was helping them keep from begging or committing crimes. They were so sweet!

It was barely past 6am and already so busy! People were selling all sorts of things, mostly having to do with prayer and the river. One woman sold plastic jugs for people to collect water from the river and take home. One woman was selling sticks from the neem tree for people to brush their teeth with. There were people doing that right by her little stall! One woman was selling coins worth 1/10th of a rupee. She typically sells 8 of them for a rupee to make a profit, and then people buy them to donate one or two to some of the pilgrims lining the street. Even this small amount of money (just a few cents worth) will help them sustain them for their stay in Varanasi. Abhi bought some and dropped the coins in some of their little tin pans. Many people were selling marigolds, especially in little disposable bowls made out of dried leaves surrounding a candle to be used as an offering to the dead. At one point the power went out so it was a good thing the boys were with us!

Selling jugs for holy water collection

Selling marigold offering bowls

We reached the river and were allowed to wander around for 10 minutes, exploring another incredible scene. I couldn’t believe how many people were there already! Dozens of them were bathing in the water, most of them going completely under, even in street clothes. We reconvened at a little shop and Abhi bought chai and cookies for anyone who was interested. The chai was the best I’d ever had! It was served in disposable clay cups, but Sharon and I kept ours when we finished.

Bathers

A holy man (yes, this is real!)

More bathers

Sunrise. The seagulls were everywhere in the
morning––Krishna said they migrate from
Siberia. People feed them dried ramen noodles,
which you can buy on the street. Not like Chicago!

As we were walking, one man came up to Bob and started massaging his hand along the way! For a tip, of course.

Next we went to one of the platforms where priests sit. It was completely optional to take part in a blessing by the priests, and most of us did it, following Abhi’s lead. Two priests worked at a time, chanting/singing a blessing about remembering the dead (I think so, anyway!!—Abhi had told us ahead a time to think of someone close to us who had died but I was so wrapped up in the ceremony itself that I completely forgot to do it!). They marked our foreheads with what Mimi aptly described as “Hindu war paint” and then blew loudly (very loudly!) into conch shells. They gave us marigolds to place in a little offering pile. I was scolded by my priest for using my right hand—Abhi told me later that women use their left hand for offerings and men use their right hand. Details, details.

Mimi, Sharon, and I after our blessing

Then we boarded a boat and traveled up the river some more. Krishna pointed out the guest house where the Beatles stayed for a while, and in fact their song “Here Comes the Sun” was written out front. I thought that was a cool but of trivia! The sunrise was beautiful. Abhi pointed out a hotel where Goldie Hawn had stayed once but that wasn’t a cool bit of trivia in my opinion.

Abhi had a tray of those little marigold offering bowls, and he lit them and we could place them on the water’s surface after thinking of a loved one who had died. I touched the water! Kind of exciting to be able to say I’ve dipped my hand in the Ganges.

We then disembarked, met by our our deaf friends, and headed back to the bus. One thing I forgot to mention throughout this trip is that the relentless souvenir vendors who follow you and pester you everywhere (Abhi calls them people just trying to make a living) will often congregate near the bus door when we’re getting back on. Then Abhi negotiates prices for all the things they’re selling and holds what he calls the “Bus Bazaar.” He’ll hold up a bunch of necklaces, for instance, and say, “Who would like one of these? 200 rupees only.” Then he’ll go through the rest of the items and do the same. We’ve all bought something from the Bus Bazaar!